On Our Radar: Allswell

The former Chef de Cuisine at the Spotted Pig puts his stamp on a new Williamsburg gastropub

Chef from The Spotted Pig opens restaurant in Brooklyn
Allswell is seasonally drive restaurant in Brooklyn. (Photo by: Allswell)

July 25, 2018

Chef Nate Smith, formerly Chef de Cuisine at The Spotted Pig, helms the kitchen at Allswell in Williamsburg. The gastropub’s market-driven menu changes daily, a progression you can follow via Tumblr, where Smith also provides a peek at the evolution of a day’s menu from start to service.

Diners looking for a carbon copy of The Spotted Pig will be disappointed; at Allswell, Smith definitely puts his personal stamp on the chalkboard menu. Locally sourced with an Anglo bent, Allswell’s cuisine runs the gamut from cardoon (artichoke thistle) toast to smoked bass with soft-boiled eggs and periwinkles; guinea fowl with roasted celery root; and mushrooms and fennel sausage pie with Colman’s Mustard. Depending on seasonal ingredients in New York means less produce in the winter. For Smith, less produce means more meat, which he sources from local, sustainable providers, like New York’s TBA Farms and Vermont Quality Meats.

Allswell’s setting is as comforting as its food. Inside the 47-seat space, dark wood frames patchwork wallpaper panels, bottles rest on bookshelves and diners settle along blue banquettes or the communal “harvest table” at center.

All meals end well when a chef marries a pastry chef. Smith’s wife, Sophie Kamin, adds her finishing touches to the menu by way of sweets like English ginger cake, clove ice cream with roasted pear, and yogurt tart with honey and Maldon sea salt.

124 Bedford Ave. (at N. 10th St.), Williamsburg

“On Our Radar” features restaurants that seem to meet Clean Plates standards, but that we haven’t yet had a chance to thoroughly vet and review. For a directory of Clean Plates Approved restaurants, download our app.

Images courtesy of Allswell.